For anyone who follows me on twitter this is probably old news. As soon as work let up enough to permit me the time I took a cartography course offered by Deven Rue (details at rueink.com). I've made lots of maps from scratch but usually the whole process happened in the computer. Ms. Rue draws her maps by hand and aside from the different technique it was exciting to see how someone else approaches the same problems.
I couldn't guess how long it took to draw the map since it I worked on it a couple hours at a time over the course of at least a week. I had a vague idea of what I wanted when I started and starting with a pencil (as opposed to a mouse) made it pretty easy to play with things on the fly.